Reunification Express (Hanoi to Saigon)

Although there has been a settlement here since the 3rd century AD, the city of Hanoi can trace its origins back to 1010 when Emperor Le Thai To moved his capital from Hoa Lu to this site. From the 1880s to World War II, Hanoi was developed as the French colonial capital of French Indochina and many of the old structures in Hanoi were razed to make way for new French buildings. Today’s Hanoi people take a lot of pride in their grand old colonial buildings and these together with the wide spacious boulevards and tree-lined lakes help make Hanoi one of most graceful and charming cities in South East Asia. After breakfast, we’ll take a half-day walking tour of the city, showcasing some of Hanoi’s most interesting attractions. We’ll begin by visiting the One Pillar Pagoda near the dour, Soviet-inspired mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. (Please note that the mausoleum is closed on Mondays, so you will need to have visited it yesterday morning (Sunday) if you wish to see Uncle Ho lying in state. Also please be warned that opening times are also very limited and it is closed for up to three months a year.) The One Pillar Pagoda was first constructed in 1049 and as such it was Hanoi’s oldest structure. If it doesn’t look that old to you, it’s because the French blew it up in 1954 as a parting gesture and the current edifice is a replica of the original. From here we’ll walk to the Temple of Literature, a wonderful name for a wonderful place. Founded in 1070, it was Vietnam’s first educational institute and a place where candidates for the position of Mandarin were examined. Finally we’ll visit the Hoa Lo Prison, probably better known to most of us as the ‘Hanoi Hilton’. Hanoi’s tallest building now occupies most of the original site, and no, it doesn’t belong to the Hilton Hotel chain, but the eastern wall and a small section of the prison behind have been retained and today serve as a museum. It mostly serves as a reminder of the Vietnamese who were incarcerated here by their French masters. The remainder of the afternoon is free for us to wander around town and check out the lifestyles of Hanoi’s people. One of the best places to do this is the city’s ‘old quarter’, situated to the north of the lake. It’s a great place (and an easy place) to get lost in for a couple of hours. However, it’s easy to find our bearings if we remember that its boundaries are the railway line to the west and the north, the Red River to the east and Hoan Kiem Lake to the south. This evening we board the Reunification Express for our overnight train journey down to Hue. (N.B: This is a local train and conditions on board are generally quite basic. Also, breakfast tomorrow is not always available on the train, so it is recommended that you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Saigon.)

Meals included: 1 breakfast

Day 3 / Hue Perfume River-tombs tour

We reach Hue in the early morning. Under the reign of the Nguyen emperors, Hue served as Vietnam’s capital from 1801 to 1945. Dripping with history, and often with rain, it has a certain serene and classic character that sets it apart from all other provincial centres. After disembarking from the train, we’ll take a short spell to refresh in our hotel rooms before mounting our local ‘shopping’ bikes, as they’re known here, and cycling down to the riverside. Here, we’ll place the bikes on board our ‘Dragon Boat’, and enjoy a leisurely cruise up the timeless Perfume River to the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc (1847-1883), one of the best remaining examples of its kind. Constructed between 1864 and 1867, it was more of a pleasure garden than a tomb and the Emperor used it as his second residence. The interesting thing is that Tu Duc is in fact not buried here and no one has yet claimed to have discovered his secret burial site and the treasures that must lie within. Not as extensively damaged during the Vietnam War as Hue’s citadel, Tu Duc's tomb remains a significant reminder of the opulent lifestyles enjoyed by the Nguyen Emperors. We’ll spend about an hour here before cycling down to the Perfume River to re-join our ‘Dragon Boat’ for the return trip down river to Hue. We’ll make one more stop on the way at Hue’s beautiful landmark Thien Mu Pagoda with its symbolic tiered tower. You have the choice of cycling back into town from here or staying on the boat. The bikes are ours for the remainder of the day and we can spend a couple of hours exploring Hue’s massive walled citadel and the Forbidden Purple Palace enclosed within. The palace’s splendid ‘Ngo Mon’ gate gives little hint of the wholesale destruction that has taken place inside at the hands of various occupying forces. The bloody ‘Battle of Hue’ during the 1968 Tet offensive all but finished it off but skilled Vietnamese craftsmen, with the help of UNESCO and other non-government organisations are hard at work restoring and rebuilding what remains. Sadly it can never be returned to its former glory, but it’s still a fascinating insight into Imperial Vietnam. Tickets to enter the Forbidden Purple Palace are available at the main gate opposite the flag tour and will cost you about US$4 (55,000VND). The remainder of our time in Hue is free and we can use our bicycles to further explore the city and its imposing citadel.

On Wednesday we have an enjoyable three-hour drive to Hoi An in the afternoon, through a region of Vietnam that’s blessed with magnificent rural and coastal scenery. Shortly after passing through pretty Lang Co Beach, Highway 1 begins its winding ascent through Hai Van Pass or, ‘Pass of the Ocean Clouds’. On the other side we drive through the busy streets of Danang and pass by the massive former US airbase that was, in 1968, the busiest airport in the world with all manner of aircraft coming and going in support of South Vietnam’s war effort. The ancient and historic town of Hoi An was for three centuries one of the most important ports in Central Vietnam, visited by sailing ships from all over the world seeking trade in silk, ceramics, spice etc. In the late 19th Century, the Tu Bon River, linking the port to the open sea, began to silt up and became unnavigable to large vessels. Trade moved up the coast to Tourane, now modern day Danang, and Hoi An went back to being a sleepy little fishing and rice farming community. Today however, Hoi An’s fortunes are once again riding on the crest of the wave as Vietnam’s Number One tourist destination. This is largely due to the fact that the old town’s narrow streets are packed with a brilliant blend of Chinese, Portuguese and Japanese style of architecture that has changed little from what it must have been like during its heydays as a major port of trade. We include a tour of the “Old Town” where you can visit an ancient house, a Chinese Assembly Hall, the Japanese Covered Bridge and a museum. In your free time afterwards we can rent bicycles and set off to explore the surrounding countryside, take a boat trip on the river, relax on the nearby beach, enjoy the wonderful cuisine on offer at some of the town’s numerous cheap cafes or have some clothes made up. Hoi An has nearly 100 ‘silk shops’ offering same day service for tailor made clothes at unbelievably low prices. If you’d like to venture further afield, it’s only a short motorcycle trip up the road to Vietnam’s world famous ‘China Beach’ and the adjacent Marble Mountains. If you’d like to learn more about the Kingdom of Champa, the ancient ruins at My Son can be visited inside half a day. Here you can see more than 70 monuments spread over a large area. ‘Spread’ being the operative word, after the French meticulously began restoring the site, the Americans came along and blew it to bits. However, if only for its beautiful setting, it’s still worth a visit and our tour leader can help you to arrange transport if you would like to see it. Depending on the train schedule, we plan to leave Hoi An on Friday mid-morning and drive back into Danang then take the day train from here to Nha Trang. (N.B: Vietnam Railways often changes the departure time of this local train so it may operate as an overnight sleeper instead. Either way, the conditions on board are generally quite basic. Be prepared for this and don’t forget your spirit of adventure!! Also, breakfast for Day 7 is not always available on the train so it is recommended that you purchase some breakfast supplies before boarding in Danang).
Meals included: 3 breakfasts

Days 7-8 / Nha Trang - Island Cruise

With fabulous sunny weather for most of the year, crystal clear blue waters surrounding a string of offshore islands and a beach that spans the whole length of the city, it’s little wonder that Nha Trang has become Vietnam’s premier beach resort. We’ll have plenty of time to worship the sun during our two full days in Nha Trang, and we’ll head out onto the water for the day to cruise around the islands. Bring your towel and swimmers because there’s a stack of time for swimming and snorkelling. At lunchtime our crew will serve up a sumptuous feast of freshly caught seafood and other delights for non-fish eaters. On Sunday evening, we board the Reunification Express for the final time and make our overnight journey to Saigon.
Meals included: 1 lunch

Days 9-10 / Saigon